INGREDIENT

INCI

%W/W

Phase A

***

Water

Aqua

***

Pemulen TR2

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

***

Ronacare Allantoin 

Allantoin

***

Glycerine 4811

Glycerin

***

Keltrol CG-T 

Xanthan Gum

***

Phase B

***

Jolee 7777

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

***

Jolee 7202 

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate

***

Radia 7104

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

***

Tinosorb S 

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

***

Eusolex 9020 

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

***

Uvasorb HEB

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

***

Uvinul T150 

Ethylhexyl Triazone

***

Phase C

***

Unicert Yellow 08005-J

CI 19140 (Yellow 5)

***

Unicert Blue 05601-J

CI 42090 (Blue 1)

***

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol 

***

Lexgard E 

Ethylhexylglycerin 

***

Parfum 

Parfum (Fragrance) 

***

NaOH (20% soln) 

Sodium Hydroxide 

***

Manufacturing procedure

1. Weigh the Water of Phase A and place it under 80°C and mix it with the IKA Eurostar 20 (300 to 400 rpm), sprinkle the Permulen TR2 and let mix for at least 5 minutes, until the solution is homogenous and doesn't contain aglomerates.
2. Premix Xanthan Gum in Glycerine and add into Phase A. Mix it with the IKA Eurostar 20 (400 rpm) until homogenized.
3. Weight the Phase B and add the emulsifier. Mix them together under 80°C. Slowly add the phase B to the Phase A. Let it mix for 5 min at 400 RPM. Remove from stirrer and put the mixture under Ultra Turax for 1 min at 8800 RPM.
4. Once the homogenized cream reaches 40°C, add ingredients in Phase C. Put the mixture under Ultra Turax for 1 min at 7000 RPM. Add 4 to 5 drops of base (NaOH 20%) until a pH around 5.5-6.

Comments

Properties
pH 5.3
Viscosity (s06, 10 rpm, 1 min): 3600 cP (3.4%)

Assessment
Good spreading, light skin feel fluid

Ingredients
Glycerine 4811 is a good humectant.
Jolee 7777 is a liquid PEG-free emulsifier package to formulate multiple emulsions.
Radia 7104 is a non-occlusive emollient and compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.
Jolee 7202 is a silicone-like emollient and gives a powdery afterfeel to the skin.

Go up