INGREDIENT

INCI

%W/W

Phase A

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Water

Aqua

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Pemulen TR2

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

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NaOH (20% soln) 

Sodium Hyroxide

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Phase B

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Water

Aqua

***

Ronacare Allantoin 

Allantoin

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Glycerine 4811

Glycerin

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Keltrol CG-T

Xanthan gum

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SunZnO-NAS

Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

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Phase C

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Jolee 7777

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate(and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

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Jolee 7202

Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate  

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Radia 7104

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 

***

Eusolex 2292

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

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Eusolex HMS 

Homosalate

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Eusolex OCR

Octocrylene

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Eusolex OS

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

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Phase D

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Nipaguard EHP

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

***

Parfum 

Parfum (Fragrance) 

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Manufacturing procedure

1. Weigh the water Phase A and place it under 80°C and mix it with the IKA Eurostar 20 (300 to 400 rpm), sprinkle the Permulen TR2 and let mix for at least 5 minutes, until the solution is homogenous and doesn't contain aglomerates. Add 4 to 5 drops of base (NaOH 20%)
2. In another separate beaker, weight the Phase B, premix Glycerine and Xanthan gum and add into water. Mix it with the IKA Eurostar 20 (400 rpm). Mix both the phase A and B when the gums has dispersed well and no agglomerates.
3. Weight the Phase C and add the emulsifier. Mix them together under 80°C. Slowly add the phase C to the water phase. Let it mix for 5 min at 400 rpm. Remove from stirrer and put the mixture under Ultra Turax for 1 min at 8800 rpm.
4. Once the homogenized cream reaches 40°C, add ingredients in Phase D. Put the mixture under Ultra Turax for 1 min at 7000 rpm

Comments

Properties
pH 5,3
Viscosity (s06, 10 rpm, 1 min): 3600 cP (3,4%)

Assessment
Good spreading, light skin feel fluid

Ingredients
Glycerine 4811 is a good humectant.
Jolee 7777 is a liquid PEG-free emulsifier package to formulate multiple emulsions.
Radia 7104 is a non-occlusive emollient and compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.
Jolee 7202 is a silicone-like emollient and gives a powdery afterfeel to the skin.

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