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Sun care ingredients that offer more than just UV protection



Sun care is being touted as the new skincare, triggering the development of multi-purpose personal care products that combine a wide range of functionalities.

This trend offers tremendous scope for new product formulators. If you can harness the power of UV protection with additional functionality in moisturizers, skin-firming and tightening products, you can access the awesome purchasing power of a growing wave of informed consumers!  

Innovation is critical

A big hurdle to growth in the sun care market is the cost-of-living crisis as consumers adopt savvy shopping behaviors in all areas of their spending. This is leading brands to re-evaluate their value proposition, with products that cost less, and those that offer multi-functionality.1

The biggest growth driver is still the positive benefits that accrue when you use sun screen. Not only does it help to prevent skin cancer by protecting you from the sun’s harmful UV rays, but it has a measurable effect in the prevention of premature skin aging, including wrinkles and age spots.

As we continue to see an increase in skin health awareness across all segments, this is also a prime opportunity to drive premiumization by encouraging consumers to use sun care products more frequently, but critically, invest in more expensive solutions.

The good news for brand owners is that even in the face of a global economic downturn, Mintel’s Insights on Protective Beauty reveals that when it comes to protective solutions, 47% of German consumers and sun care users are interested in sun protection products that can protect the skin against environmental stressors with the total rising to 61% in the US.2

Consumers love a tint

The sun care industry has seen a surge in tinted moisturizers that offer a sun protection factor (SPF). Launches of these hybrid product are rising as brands highlight key benefits such as protection from UV damage and oxidative stress.3

At Oleon Health and Beauty, our range of emollients offer enhanced moisturizing, solubility, spreadability and wetting properties. This means that pigments can deliver slip without the typical greasiness found in other branched esters.

As a light ester, Jolee® 7109 offers excellent skin feel for all your skin and color cosmetic formulations. Despite its higher viscosity it renders a remarkably light spreading property and compatibility with various solvents. Studies also indicate great product stability with frequently used oils in diverse applications ranging from sun to hair care.

Film-forming water resistance

One of the biggest challenges during the formulation of sun care products is the expectation that the active ingredient remains on the skin, even after water exposure or perspiration. Creating a water-oil-water emulsion (WOW) with Jolee® 7777 will improve film forming properties and water resistance of your formulation compared to a regular oil-water (OW) emulsion.

We compared the film forming properties and water resistance of an OW emulsion containing 3% of glyceryl stearate citrate SE with a WOW emulsion containing 3% Jolee® 7777. The latter showed an added value for sun screen formulations in terms of water resistant properties in comparison to a conventional OW formulation.

All day sun protection

The solubility of organic UV-filters in Jolee® 7202 has been evaluated in order to prove its beneficial use in sun care formulations. In comparison to commonly used benchmarks and silicones, it is clear that Jolee® 7202 brings an added value to any formulation containing organic UV-filters, even at high UV-filter concentrations. During formulation this means that, next to its benefit of being a natural silicone alternative, there is also no need to add additional UV-filter solubilizers.

Perfect beach solutions  

As a biodegradable isosteric acid ester, Jolee® 7181 offers a soft skin feel with a glossy appearance. We recommend this product for sun care formulations as it not only features excellent water resistance but acts as a readily biodegradable protective emollient, while its highly substantive lipid film leaves a glossy appearance on the skin.

Not forgetting one of the stars in our range, Jolee® 7202. This product can complement all sun care formulations with a unique sand repelling action. It also improves skin feel with its non-sticky, soft and powdery touch!

More than just a sun care product

At Oleon Health & Beauty, we offer our customers an expanded range of esters merging both excellent UV-solubilization properties and delightful cosmetic sensorial characteristics to give customers so much more than just a sun care product.

For more information on how we can assist you in your sun care formulation journey, please contact our team now.

References:

1, UK Suncare Market Report - Market Size, Forecast & Growth (mintel.com)

2 Mintel insights on protective beauty (cosmeticsdesign.com)

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