What is behind the surge in derma cosmetics?

Blurring the lines between topical beauty and dermatological science, derma cosmetics offer a deep and effective method of action over traditional retail brands in the beauty and personal care sector.

As opposed to an over-the-counter topical moisturizer, the molecules and active ingredients in a derma cosmetic emollient can target the dermis or middle layers of the skin to correct and protect skin tissue. These items are often recommended by dermatologists or cosmetologists when a customized approach to treat skin-related conditions is needed.¹

To label a moisturizer, anti-aging serum, pore refiner, mask, or exfoliator as a ‘derma cosmetic’ it is critical that the product contains active ingredients with a proven track record of effectiveness and stellar ingredient delivery. ²  Furthermore, to ensure the quality and safety of a product, all derma cosmetics are subject to rigorous laboratory testing.

As we continue to look for ways to improve our skin health, beauty brands are tapping into the purchasing power of an aging demographic with more disposable income, the rising economic clout of the middle class and the need for treatment solutions for those consumers suffering from skin disease and disorders.

The evolution of science-backed skin care formulations offer a massive growth opportunity for brand owners and ingredient suppliers, with a strong CAGR of 8.9% predicted - up from 2021 to reach $132,743.5m by 2030.³ This growth will be further enhanced by a wealth of science-backed conferences, product launches and events aimed at educating both brand owners and consumers on the powerful benefits of these super-charged beauty products.

Why are consumers turning towards derma cosmetics?

Our modern and frenetic lifestyles often mean our skin is exposed to pollutants and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This has resulted in skin damage including photoaging, fine lines and wrinkles, a coarse skin texture and a decrease in skin elasticity becoming more common.

As an industry, we can expect to see a continuation of a powerful consumer shift to products that can ensure skin health, rather than opting for aesthetic beauty interventions and enhancements such as Botox, fillers, and surgical procedures.

Derma cosmetics offer a real solution to skin problems such as acne, psoriasis, hyperpigmentation, dyspigmentation, freckles, melasma, deep wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis and will continue to thrive in the face of a growing body of science-led innovation of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging - fostering a culture of technical and science-backed product development. ⁴

Gorgeous looking skin is now possible, but the efficacy of derma cosmetics must be measured on how its molecules and active ingredients can penetrate the dermis or middle layers of the skin where active ingredients including retinol, hyaluronic acid, high lipid emollients and niacinamide can target, correct, and protect skin. ⁵

The need for effective lab testing

To prove efficacy, safety and to substantiate any labelling claims, derma cosmetics must go through rigorous laboratory and dermatology trials and tests. These are required to facilitate innovation while improving or introducing new products to ensure consumer safety and satisfaction. Scientific and credible dermatology testing often uses a risk-based approach where dermatologists design bespoke protocols for a product and its intended use – in this manner generating cost-efficient and highly credible clinical trials.⁶

When it comes to anti-aging derma cosmetics, these tests could include skin replica and image analysis that tracks and analyzes the number, length, and depth of wrinkles; cutaneous micro relief analysis; photographic acquisitions in standardized conditions that can analyze wrinkles and age spots; firmness and elasticity measurements; hydration and skin barrier function and skin sampling techniques including tape stripping, D-Squame sampling and punch biopsy methods.⁷

How we can help  

As an ingredient supplier to the beauty and personal care industry we understand the value of bringing a science-backed and clinically trialed product to market. We know that brand loyalty rests on the proven efficacy of your product, its active ingredients and method of delivery.

With the stellar growth seen in the derma cosmetics market, why not consider developing derma cosmetics during your next product development drive? At Oleon Health and Beauty, our dedicated team of research technologists are on hand to assist you with all the formulation advice you require, so why not contact us today?

 

References:

1,2 What is dermocosmetics? | Brunet

3,4,5, Dermacosmetics Market Trends Analysis & Demand Forecast, 2030 (psmarketresearch.com)

6Dermatology Studies for Cosmetics and Beauty Products (intertek.com)

7Anti-ageing Cosmetic Clinical Study Services (intertek.com)